Life in Kingdom of Thailand: Hiking the Ancient Trails of the Kumano Kodo in Japan

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Diverging stone paths through forest in Kumano Kodo, Japan

The Kumano Kodo is a network of trails that split and intertwine, allowing hikers some Robert Frost-worthy* decisions!

The Kumano Kodo is a network of trails that crisscross the Kie mountain range in Wakayama prefecture south of Kyoto. The paths date back more than 800 years and move from lush valleys and vast rocky riverbeds, up steep hills past waterfalls, and through quaint mountain villages nestled in dense forests. Along these paths are towns and small mountain villages with traditional full-board Japanese inns, called ryokan, allowing hikers to move along the trails at their own pace before soaking in natural mountain onsens before a pleasant night of rest atop tatami mats. Many stops along the trails are UNESCO heritage sites and in and of themselves are well worth a visit. Also worth noting is that this ancient trail network was historically used as a Buddhist pilgrimage to one of three major shrines and may be considered similar in purpose to the Camino de Santiago in northwestern Spain. Tiger and Bird are always simply searching for a good hike and found the scenery and unique experience enjoyable.

Detailed, advanced planning is essential in order to traverse the Kumano Kodo trails. Tiger and Bird dedicated a good week of after-work free time to understand our options. This started with identifying landmarks and towns we wanted to stop by, determining realistic hiking distances between ryokan (we gave ourselves more time when hiking uphill through difficult terrain, and less time for easy walks on paved paths through towns), and finally, planning public transport options, in case we were too tired to continue, between various ryokan and paths. Thankfully, the local government has put together a good resource on all the paths and options available throughout the Kumano region online – more details on that below!

Again, please note that adequate preparation is essential; cell phone service can be spotty and mountain trails are deserted and can be quite treacherous after dark.

*See Robert Frost’s poem “The Road Not Taken”

Nakahechi Main Route: a UNESCO World Heritage Trail
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Largest Torii gate on the Nakahechi Trail of the Kumano Kodo in Japan

The largest Torii gate in the world is located along the Nakahechi trail

Tiger and Bird were interested in hiking an ancient trail in the south of Kumano, the 74km (46mi) Nakahechi. This area encompasses some of the most ancient portions of the Kumano Kodo and includes paths snaking through forested mountains, meandering around rivers, and passing by small villages. No wonder it has the distinction of being one of just two UNESCO World Heritage Trails! Besides hiking, accessibility via small mountain roads by car (not recommended; you plan on hiking, after all!) or by bus after taking the train is quite easy. The towns to the West and East, Tanabe and Shingu, respectively, serve as the main gateways to Nakahechi trail. From these points, buses traverse some of the main towns in the region and provide easy access to some of the more popular trailheads and landmarks. Hiking the entire portion of the trail will take 4 – 7 days, depending on physical fitness and the weather (trekking poles are highly recommended!); a University of Tokyo professor and seasoned hiker we briefly chatted with preferred a shorter four-day hike, since for her the scenery was beginning to appear too familiar after day 5.

The official online maps proved very helpful and included elevation and difficulty breakdowns as well as distance between various towns, landmarks, and trail facilities (bathrooms, phones, ryokan). For our trip, we planned a relaxed three-day hike on the West-to-East route in frosty late autumn; hey, the changing leaves are beautiful! And, after all, boiling hot onsens are best enjoyed in the cold. We started halfway along the Nakahechi main route at Hosshinmon-oji (see the maps on the official website), completing the Hongu loop – which includes visiting the delightful town of Yunomine – and finishing our hike at the town of Shingu. During the day, we trekked amid towering trees on forested mountains; up steep and seemingly endless cobblestone steps; through quaint villages dotted in the mountains and valleys; and across the stony, dry riverbed of the Kumano River. At night, we wearily relaxed in hot onsens and slept on soft, woven tatami mats. Upon completion of our journey, which ended too soon, we boarded a Japan Railway train at Shingu and headed back around the peninsula to Kyoto.

Official Kumano Kodo Documentation

Kumano Kodo Overview. General information maintained by the local government.
Sample Itineraries. Excellent 3-6 day itinerary ideas.
Nakahechi Imperial Route. A popular path that Tiger and Bird selected for this trip.
Kumano Kodo Maps. Detailed maps of the various routes, including difficulty and seasonal information and elevation data

NOTE

Tiger and Bird's Rough Itinerary

Google Maps only includes the main roads, so the above map merely highlights our stopping points along the route. We also completed the Hongu Loop over the period of one of the days, staying for two nights in Yunomine.

Day 1
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Public Japanese bus to Hosshinmon-oji on the Kumano Kodo trail

Kumano bus on the way to Hosshinmon-oji, the starting point for our journey. There were about twenty people on the bus to also hike this leg of the Kumano Kodo.

Kumano Kodo signpost in an autumn colored field

Wooden gate to Hongu loop in Kumano, Japan

Closed path to Hongu Loop in Kumano, Japan

Picture 1. One of numerous signs indicating the direction of the next stop for those hiking the Kumano Kodo. Picture 2. Entrance to the forested path of the Hongu loop. Picture 3. Unfortunately, our hike took place several months after a series of typhoons hit the region, which washed out a bridge along our path. We were forced to take the tamer route that intersected with several villages.

Traditional Japanese step farm along Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

Here the path led us between some low-lying houses and farm buildings

Wooden farmer's fruit stand adjacent to the Kumano Kodo in Japan

One of numerous small, wooden stands adjacent to the Kumano Kodo. Oftentimes, fruit and vegetables are placed here, along with a price list and a small box for purchases to place their coins. Everyone is quite trusting and apparently most hikers are quite trustworthy!

Narrow path between stone abutments on the Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

Sometimes the path is quite narrow! This area vaguely reminded us of some paths in the village of Grindelwald, Switzerland

Wooden house and emergency phone for Kumano Kodo travelers in Japan

A payphone (and emergency phone!) located outside a traditional Japanese house

Hiker along stone Kumano Kodo path in autumn colored field

Rest stops and restaurants infrequently appear along the Kumano Kodo trail

Hiking the stone steps of the Kumano Kodo path in Japan

Paved paths give way to well-maintained stone pathways...

Dirt path through huge trees and farms on the Kumano Kodo in Japan

... which in turn give way to simple dirt paths through the forest.

Hiking through tall trees on the Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

Hiking through forest of tall trees on Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

Tall trees in a forest on the Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

Picture 1. Tiger hiking through a pristine forest. Picture 2. Bird taking a water break in the midst of the forest. Picture 3. Most trees in Asia seem relatively short, but this forest towered far above us, giving our hike an otherworldly feel

kumano.co shokudo restaurant of Hongu town in Kumano, Japan

As night begins to fall, Tiger and Bird decided to stop by this warm and comfortable restaurant, a perfect blend of traditional outdoor architecture with modern amenities. The waiter/barista/chef was very friendly but spoke little English.

Traditional Japanese restaurant in Hongu town of Kumano, Japan

Gyoza in traditional Japanese restaurant in Hongu town in Kumano, Japan

Venison on rice in traditional Japanese restaurant in Hongu town in Kumano, Japan

Picture 1. The beautiful interior of the restaurant. Shoes must always be left near the door! Picture 2. A simple set with gyoza made with wild boar meat. Picture 3. Venison on top of rice. A delicious combo!

Day 2
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Verdant shrubs in front of small town in Kumano mountains in Japan

Agricultural endeavors are common in the region of Kumano and collections of low-lying houses and farm buildings are often found in the more habitable areas. In the valleys are fields of rice. In the hills are fruit trees and large vegetable gardens.

Locals harvesting fruit from trees in Kumano mountains, Japan

Locals harvesting fruit from a tree. Cars and trucks in Japan are much more compact than in the USA!

Sharp yellow oranges on tree in front of green valley in Kumano, Japan

After rounding the top of a hill, we had a wonderful view of the valley beyond the small orange groves.

Rock path between green ferns on Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

The vegetation is thick in some areas, and these ferns are massive!

Bright red leaves of tree above path down to town along the Kumano Kodo in Japan

After nearly an entire day of hiking, our ancient path intersects with civilization, and we follow a stone stair (not shown) down to the streets of the town below.

Spooky mannequin to chase animals and tourists away from green vegetables in garden in Kumano, Japan

A mannequin that will not only scare away the birds but also tourists like Tiger and Bird! That is just creepy.

Modern Japanese-style house in town in Kumano, Japan

A Japanese house with traditional elements in the town. Here our path led us along paved sidewalks.

Hot onsen water for visitors to enjoy in Kumano, Japan

Most onsens are indoors. This hotel has diverted some of the hot spring water from the adjacent river for hikers to enjoy!

Rusty metal bridge over rocky river at Kawayu onsen in Kumano, Japan

A charming riverside town alongside a hot river. In the winter, locals looking to enjoy an outdoor onsen experience can simply dig a hole in the rocks. The hole quickly fills with steaming hot, mineral infused spring water!

Day 3
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Red woods and woodland path of the Kumano Kodo trail in Kumano, Japan

Passing by some park facilities and other hikers. Always remember to say a quick “hello”! Meeting people from all over the world is part of the charm of hiking the Kumano Kodo!

Dense trees around path covered with roots on the Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

The tree roots form a natural floor for the path. The forest can be quite dense!

Hiking down big stone steps of the Kumano Kodo trail between tall redwood trees in Japan

Bird hiking through a Japanese redwood forest. This part of the hike was lovely but would have been quite treacherous in rainy weather.

Mossy Kumano Kodo trail on steep hillside to town and stony Kumano riverbed in Japan

The vast, stony Kumano riverbed contrasting with the stone steps of the trail leading down the forested hillside into the valley below.

Mossy wall next to gravel trail beneath trees adorned with autumn leaves in Kumano, Japan

Beautiful autumn leaves set against the verdant moss-covered rocks beside the path. Here the path led us through a small park in the valley.

Shrine beneath trees with autumn leaves in Kumano, Japan

Various monuments in the park

Wooden bench in park beneath trees with autumn leaves in Kumano, Japan

This park had benches but no other facilities!

Small village against hillside in Kumano, Japan

A view of the town from the valley floor. The Kumano river was more like a large stream when we visited, but from the positioning the towns and the high walls along the banks, this must frequently become a mighty river.

Hiker standing in stony Kumano riverbed near the Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

Taking a quick standing break in the Kumano riverbed. At the trailhead by the hillside, numerous walking sticks had been left by other hikers. We used several while traversing the valley.

Entrance to temple along the Kumano Kodo trail in Japan

The entrance to a temple in the valley. Here we met several government tourist officers and filled out a survey for them about our recent hiking experiences.

The Kumano Kodo trail network stretches throughout the beautiful, forested Kie Mountains.

Tiger and Bird loved hiking the Kumano Kodo in late Autumn. During the day, we would trek from morning until afternoon, stopping at inns to rest our weary bodies in hot, mineral-infused onsens as dusk and the frosty night air set in. At night we would sleep on fragrant tatami mats and wake early for the next day’s adventure. The experience was wonderful, and we certainly plan on returning!

Off to Kyoto
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Panda express on JR Kansai railway in Shingu, Japan

All aboard the Panda Express! After looking at various routes, we decided to take the train from Shingu station back around the peninsula to Kyoto via Osaka. A JR Kansai rail pass provided a great way for us to do just that, and enable us to travel onwards as far as Kobe and other cities in the Kansai region. We sat on the left side of the train to get the best view of the beaches and small towns by the ocean.

Picture 1. The interior of our train. Everything was clean and beautifully maintained. We almost exclusively had the cabin to ourselves for the first hour or so of the journey. Picture 2 and Picture 3. We picked up bento boxes from a small sushi restaurant opposite the train station before jumping on the train. Be sure to check your departure times! We almost missed this JR train departure since we mistakenly believed we could take a later, second train (which ended up being run by another company).

Stony beach as seen from JR Kansai train

The scenery was quite beautiful on the train to Kyoto. Vast, stony beaches interrupted by small, seaside towns with huge concrete bulwarks facing the ocean and large rivers emptying out into the ocean. We rested on the four-hour trip to Osaka before catching our connection for the next one-hour trip to Kyoto.

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