Life in Thailand: South of Hua Hin: Beaches and National Parks

Playing in the surf on Khao Kalok beach

Bangkok is situated around 20 miles (32km) from the tip of the Gulf of Thailand, if one were to follow the Chao Phraya river to the point where it meets the sea. However, the most famous beaches near the capitol are often cited as being found in either Pattaya to the southeast or in the sleepy town of Hua Hin to the southwest. The experiences are like night and day. Pattaya is a fully developed miniature city, replete with a strong expat community and numerous first-world amenities like luxury hotels, shopping complexes, and touristy excursions. Hua Hin is more of a quiet place; oh, it also has luxury hotels and plenty of white-sand beaches, but it feels more untouched and more authentic than its sister city across the gulf.

Anyone who visits Bangkok will hear of both Hua Hin and Pattaya. Today, however, Tiger and Bird would like to talk neither of these places and look to another region, more local, and less known, immediately to the south of Hua Hin. Where, you ask? Why, we are talking about the region of Pranburi.

Distances
> Pattaya. 90 miles (146km) southeast of Bangkok. About a 2 hour 30 min drive
> Hua Hin. 124 miles (200km) southwest of Bangkok. About a 4 hour drive
> Pak Nam Pran (Pranburi). 19mi (30km) south from Hua Hin. Another 40 min drive

Pak Nam Pran and Greater Pranburi

Tiger and Bird have always enjoyed long road trips around Thailand. There is just so much to see and discover. Life in Bangkok is not the same as in rural Thailand. Just a four hour drive away from the city in any direction - excluding Pattaya - and the scenery changes dramatically and life slows down. Gone are the skyscrapers and high rise apartment buildings. Gone too are the chain restaurants like KFCs and McDonald's. Even *gasp* 7-Elevens become hard to find outside of the very occasional petrol station along the main roads (oh, and did I mention many of these gas stations also close at night? Fill up before darkness sets in)! There are more farms and sleepy local eateries. Life is more sabai sabai (relaxing).

Pranburi's beaches are also very local affairs, and for the most part - excluding the famous five-star Villa Maroc and some newer, adjacent properties - in a different class from what one might expect from the traditional international hotel chains. Many of the beaches in Pranburi are white sand, but unraked and left more or less to nature when compared to Hua Hin. This leads to a undisturbed, rustic feel to them. Because these beaches are also more local, they are largely deserted during the day - when the sun is high - which is also a nice break from the crowding around the more popular areas. Still don't believe me? Let's take a look!

Sam Roi Yot Beach

A calm ocean that is almost as still as a lake

Sam Roi Yot is a sleepy beach partially sheltered by the relatively large island Ko Kho Ram and the smaller Ko Nom Sao. This results in a quiet bay with very calm waters, which can at times be as still as a lake. At the southern end of the beach is a small fishing village, with many colorful boats moored nearby. The naturally white sand beach gives way to a grassy, lightly forested area located in front of a small frontage road. Small, local resorts are located on the opposite side of the road, with some prices as low as $30/night.

Tiger and Bird spent several days here, lounging around during the day and going to bed early at night. Vacation doesn't have to always be about activities. Sometimes, a good book, decent food, and a private beach can do the trick!

Photo 1. One particularly foggy morning, several adventurers walk into the bay Photo 2. Kayaking in the still waters off of the beach Photo 3. Fishing boat returns in the early morning to the small village. Ko Kho Ram is the island in the background Photo 4. Colorful fishing boat moored on the beach.

Sam Roi Yot beach. Low tide in the early morning

Sam Roi Yot beach. Fishing boats anchored near the beach

During our stay, Tiger and Bird did see several adventurous farang (Western) couples walking along the beach, but for the most part, the visitors were all Thai people from the area. We rented bicycles and rode leisurely along the frontage road, which had almost no traffic, to various points on the beaches and bought drinks on sale at local shops. The food itself is not memorable, we must add, but it was passable- with one major exception: fresh seafood purchased off the boats was absolutely fantastic! The best part of this beach was that there are no beach umbrella cities camped on the sand. This also means there are no chairs OR mats for rent, either- at least outside of whatever is available at the resort you decide to visit.

Want more international-standard amenities in a similar locale?
Drive further beyond this sheltered bay, around the canal, and on the ocean-facing "private" beach right before the large, impassable hill is the Hansar Pranburi (Hansar is a Thai hotel chain with a good reputation). On days where the tides are not too strong, one can kayak around the point to a truly private, truly inaccessible private beach.

Khao Kalok Beach and Thaao Ko Sa Park

Rocky formation of Thaao Ko Sa Park at the end of Khao Kalok Beach

Khao Kalok is situated in the bay immediately north of Sam Roi Yot and proves to be a more popular local beach. Perhaps this has something to do with larger ocean swells and bigger waves crashing on the shore. Popular, did I say? The place is never crowded and remains quiet, but vendors do sell food and drinks in food stalls. Small, local restaurants are positioned right off the beach and the usual chairs, mats, and umbrellas are also available for rent.

At the southern end of the beach is the beginning of a large hilly formation that is part of the small Thaao Ko Sa Park. The Thai nickname for the hill can be roughly translated to "skull mountain", which comes form the steep, rocky cliffs that protrude out of the beach. Many families place their mats and chairs in its shade. Ko Sa cave is an opening into the bottom of the formation that provides a fun view of the rock formation, although technically its not really a cave- just a large, open area near the beach.

Additionally, a view point at the top of the hill provides a great vantage point over the beach. The trail is accessible from several points - including the waterfront - and is fairly straightforward and well marked. You may want to bring some shoes for this light climb. Oh, also, it can be somewhat strenuous depending on the climber's age.

Photo 1. Sign outside of the Ko Sa Cave on the south end of Khao Kalok beach Photo 2. Several children on the steps leading up to the Thaao Ko Sa Park viewpoint from the ocean. Come at low tide to be able to maximize the beach experience and maybe see some crabs scurrying along the rocks!

Bang Po and Laem Sala Beaches

Waves breaking along the very shallow bay in front of Bang Po Beach

Further south of the previously described locales, and a full 31mi (50km) from the center of Hua Hin town, is located a collection of sharp hills of otherworldly appearance rising out of the flatlands called Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. Here the major roads traverse a low lying, flat valley crisscrossed by canals bringing seawater to small, local fisheries. The valley is largely deserted, with few people, no restaurants, and absolutely no hotels.

Tiger and Bird sometimes feel adventurous! We saw signs for walking trails atop the hills, a part of the national park, and followed a small dirt road - red, from the clay that makes up the soil - up a steep hill into the jungle. Make no mistake, this small road was little more than a single lane and led several kilometers from the main road to a deserted facility with bathrooms, information boards, and markings for the start of the trail. It was eerie. Literally no one else was around. We tend to trust our instincts in strange travel situations and decided to immediately turn around and leave for the park's more popular coastal getaways.

Driving down another small road to the coast, this time with more traffic, we pass by some small shops and eventually reach a parking lot adjacent to Bang Po beach. Here many small shops sell touristy trinkets, and exotic - yet incredibly cheap - seashells. Thai food and drinks are available here from several local restaurants. The mood of the locals is very sabai sabai and they appear used to tourists. The beach is quiet with long, regular waves approaching the shore through the relatively shallow bay. For a small fee, one can also take the 350m scenic hike (or pay for a boat trip) to the absolutely stunning Laem Sala beach. From there one can continue on the further 430m trek to the Phraya Nakhon Cave.

The short hike leads to the white sand beach of Laem Sala. This beautiful beach almost shimmers in direct sunlight and is only accessible, as previously mentioned, by hiking or by boat. A pine forest lines the shore with basic park facilities available (bathroom, camping grounds, and several bungalows). Because this is a national park, costs associated with staying on the beach are very affordable. The cave complex is also rather impressive, with the main attraction a large cavern with a royal pavilion built beneath a circular opening in the hill above; at various times of the day, sunlight streams inside, creating a glowing effect.

Photo 1. Ticketing booth for the national park. Arrive after 4:30pm to avoid paying fees! Photo 2. View of the Bang Po beach from the hiking trail Photo 3. View of the Laem Sala beach from the hiking trail Photo 4. Laem Sala beach as dusk approaches

Laem Sala Beach
Summary: Brilliant white sand beach located 50km south of Hua Hin town
Accessibility: 350m hike, shoes recommended OR boat trip
Facilities: Bathrooms, campground, several bungalows
Hours: 8:30am - 4:30pm, park entrance fee of about 200bt pp is in effect

Other Pranburi Beaches

Large waves rolling into the shore on a beach in Pranburi

Pranburi District, located south of Hua Hin, is home to many quiet beaches - including the ones discussed in this post - that provide a nice local respite from the touristy areas of the town. The beaches are rustic and wild and can be more difficult (read: expensive) to reach without access to your own vehicle. For those who do venture to rent a car, the trip may be a good way to escape from the concrete jungle of Bangkok. Bring your swimsuit, a book, and a bottle or two of wine for a really sabai sabai getaway. Enjoy wildlife and wildlife photography? The national parks in this area are the place for you! Want to just take a quiet weekend away from the hectic city life? Go for it! The options are plentiful and the ocean takes on a life of its own: no two trips will be the same.

Heavy surf crashing into the shore on a beach in Pranburi

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Tiger and Bird have traveled to Pranburi multiple times over the years, and the photographs reflect these visits. The one thing that remains constant is that it's always a good time!!

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