Unseen Bangkok. Images and content © Chris
Unseen Bangkok. Images and content © Chris

Wednesday, January 30, 2019

Day Trips to the Chonburi Shore

[Bangsan Beach]   [Rong Payaban Kao Road]    [Fisherman Markets]
Thai youngsters playing in the waters by Bang Saen Beach watch the last glimpse of the sun as it melts into the ocean
Sometimes Tiger and Bird enjoy a simple day trip to get their monthly beach fix. After all, why commit an entire weekend to a sleepy beach town when you can get to the beach and back to the big city all in the same day? Or perhaps a busy schedule will only accommodate a day away from the City of Angels. Apparently, many Thai tourists from Bangkok and Rayong adopt a similar view and choose to visit the 4.3km-long (2.7mi) Bang Saen Beach near the small beach town of Chonburi, a convenient one-hour drive from the eastern edge of the capitol city. But be aware! One result of its rising popularity is that the beach becomes very crowded on weekend afternoons.

Spelled alternatively Bang Saen or Bangsan (yes, yes, we all yearn for the day when that long-awaited official transliteration from Thai script to English lettering will be released), Google Maps and other online references from English-language travel websites have been moving in recent years towards "Bangsan", and hence we will also do the same for the remainder of this post!  

Thai families playing on the beach and in the sometime-muddy waters off Bang Saen


Make no mistake- this sandy beach is most popular with locals, and even during the crowded evening hours, few foreigners will be seen lounging around on the beach (just FYI, the unwritten rule is that swimsuits are also decidedly Asian in appearance- board shorts for men, shorts and shirt for women). That isn’t to say that the place isn’t pleasant, however- just less known among tourist circles. Typical of Thai beaches, there is a frontage road the runs along much of the beach with parking often available on the side facing the ocean. During the weekend, double and even triple parking here is quite common.

The beach itself has nice shaded areas, provided by palm trees clustered around the parking lot and the drier parts of the beach. Here, vendors sell food and drink, and beach chair and umbrella cities spring up- all available for a day's rent at a reasonable fee. Children play in the sand and various water sports touts offer banana boat rides, jetski rentals, and inflatables purchases. Across the road from the beach are also numerous local resorts, small restaurants, and the friendly neighborhood 7-Elevens (Family Mart deserves a mention too since they are now growing in popularity!).

First Photo: Northern beachhead of Bang Saen. Second Photo: Beach activity really beginning to pick up around 3:30 PM. Third Photo: Bang Saen becomes quite crowded around 5 PM; the sun has begun to go down, encouraging the locals to come out and play

Dusk has settled on Bang Saen beach, but many people continue to enjoy the water




Darkness settles over Bang Saeng beach as the sun retreats beyond the horizon. The photo looks manipulated, but it isn’t- the darkness of an oncoming storm contrasted strongly against the sunset.



Rong Payaban Kao Road
[Bangsan Beach]   [Rong Payaban Kao Road]    [Fisherman Markets]
Local oceanfront road that connects to the Rong Payaban Kao Road that extends over the ocean near Chonburi

Rong Payaban Kao Road is a relatively new 6km-long bypass extending over the ocean and parallel to the shore around the small city of Chonburi. The route has become a very popular destination for the evening hours since parallel-parking is available along long stretches of the road, and the bypass offers stunning views of the sunset. Locals frequently bring a picnic dinner from nearby seafood restaurants, or buy snacks from the numerous vendors who set up their stalls in the parking areas.

How to reach the bypass
Rong Payaban Kao Road begins in the tiny Soi Bang Sai 83 (alley) in the north and ends at the larger Soi Nartmontasevee 13 to the south. Also accessible from many of the larger streets in Chonburi city.

Around the midpoint of the bypass, near Chonburi Municipality Stadium and local government buildings


On Saturday evenings, the Tha Ruea Phli Fish Market opens near the midpoint of the road (it's aptly named "Saturday Evening Seafood Market" in Google Maps, in case you would like to stop by). Prices are reasonable, but parking can be quite limited due to how popular the place is. In the nearby Soi Soem Santi are located some local seafood restaurants in case you want to skip the crowds.

Picture 1: Rong Payaban Kao Road near the southern end, driving north. Picture 2: Street vendors selling Som Tum, Thai tea and similar beverages, and dried fish in a parking area along the road. Picture 3: Thai vendors selling their wares on the roadside

Weekday evening view of the bypass. What does the actual sunset look like from the bridge? See the last photo on this post!



Fisherman Markets
[Bangsan Beach]   [Rong Payaban Kao Road]    [Fisherman Markets]

Fisherman's Market (Angsila). Open daily from 8 AM - 7 PM. Hundreds of shops.
The vast Angsila Market is more than 100 years old. The market used to sit on the corner of a busy street, literally connected to the pier used by local fishermen who would then sell their catch in small shops. Then, several years ago, this market moved about a kilometer down the road as part of a massive project that also saw the addition of a huge parking lot and cleaner facilities. This market is a MUST-SEE addition to Chonburi. Fresh seafood delivered directly from the fishing boats is available at ultra-low prices. Customers ordering their seafood at the small shops can also have it cooked on-site for very nominal fees. However, the site remains relatively unknown among most tourists- even today, the vast majority of customers are from Thailand. But, really, what can beat eating steamed fresh crab, grilled fresh shrimp, and freshly-fried fish?

Tha Ruea Phli Fish Market. Open Saturdays 4 PM - 10 PM. More than one hundred shops.
The fish market has become quite successful, drawing numerous locals and some tourists to dine almost literally beside the sea. Many customers choose to buy their food here, and then sit by the ocean on Rong Payaban Kao Road to enjoy a great view and fresh seafood. Prices are elevated relative to the much larger Angsila Fisherman's Market, but compared to Bangkok restaurants, it still remains quite affordable! Skeptical? Grab some takeway from the fish market and then eat your steam crab while literally watching a sunset like the one pictured below! After all, that's what Tiger and Bird did on this particular Saturday trip.

Title says it all! A stunning view of the sunset from the bypass. The small "sticks" protruding from the water mark fishing traps


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Next up, visiting the tropical paradise of Koh Thalu, a small island located to the southwest of Bangkok in Chumpon!

Previous post: Jomtien beach activities and recommended places to stay

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