[Top] [Ryokan Suggestions] [Tsubo-yu Onsen]
Yunomine (pronounced “you-nah-min-ayy”) is a delightful mountain village that Tiger and Bird immediately fell in love with. Surrounded by cozy Japanese inns and houses, a hot stream - fed by boiling, mineral-rich water rising naturally out of the ground - flows lazily down the hillside, creating plumes of steam in the frosty winter night air. Central to the town is a public onsen fed by the hot waters of the stream. The crown jewel of Yunomine is Tsubo-yu Onsen, a small wooden, partially open-air cabin built over the natural hot spring waters of the stream itself. Tsubo-yu is one of the oldest onsens in Japan (perhaps discovered more than 1,500 years ago according to our innkeeper) and holds the distinction of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tiger and Bird strongly recommend that anyone who plans to hike the Kumano Kodo trail MUST book at least one night in this quaint and isolated mountain village.
The town has a small general store and several drink vending machines selling sake and other alcoholic (and non-alcoholic) beverages. The bus stop, located near the public onsen in the center of the town, is a prominent stopping point for multiple buses traveling East-West to major train stations on either side of the Kumano region (the port cities of Tanabe in the East, and Shingu in the West). That’s about it- onsens, ryoken, and clean mountain air basically make up Yunomine. Oh, and if you’re interested in staying in Yunomine, bear in mind that this village is a very popular location- be sure to book your preferred inn (read on for our suggestions) at least several months in advance!
Yunomine is a relatively sleepy town during the day. Visitors are hiking the nearby Kumano trails while the sun is up, and wearily resting in the evening hours in the various inns and public and private onsens. The real charm of the village starts around 4:30 PM, just before the early darkness of the mountains descends.
If you're familiar with Japanese cuisine, onsen tamago (onsen egg) can be a nice accompaniment for breakfast! This low-temperature egg was traditionally cooked in nets in hot onsens, giving the cooked egg a delightfully creamy texture. Here in Yunomine, there is a cooking onsen located in the center of the village (public use, free of charge). Tiger and Bird enjoyed cooking eggs here in the hot river on several occasions.
Picture 1. View of the stairs from the stream. Picture 2. Cooking some onsen eggs to add to our wild boar stew! Picture 3. Steam rising above the cooking area. That water is HOT!
Lodgings
[Top] [Ryokan Suggestions] [Tsubo-yu Onsen]
Tiger and Bird spent about thirty minutes selecting a Ryokan for Yunomine, but we did run into several very good options across a wide budget range. We recommend, if possible, that visitors consider splurging here and cutting a bit elsewhere to get the full mountain village experience!
Ryokan Adumaya. Best in class. Cost $300/night for two people. Traditional Japanese facilities and comfort with great location, food, and service. This ryokan is centrally located in the village, across from both the bus stop and public onsen. Tsubo-yu is also located only a few steps away! Oh, for those lazy folks who are driving, this inn also is one of only a few in Yunomine that has a private parking lot.
J-Hoppers Yunomine . Cost $100/night for two people in a private room. J-Hoppers is a popular chain among backpackers, and, having talked to multiple travelers staying there in Yunomine, appeared to be clean and an excellent choice for those on a budget. Dorm room beds also available, but the private rooms apparently are an excellent alternative to a regular ryokan. Location up the hill from the center of town, but very walkable (less than 100m distance).
Yunominesou. Cost $200/night for two people. This spa complex is not in the village of Yunomine itself but located about 600m down the hill from the public onsen. The facilities are dated but food and service excellent. Also, for those booking early enough, rooms are available that have a nice view of the valley below. Originally, Tiger and Bird had planned to stay here, but the inn was fully booked by the time we were ready to place our reservations.
Tsubo-yu Onsen
[Top] [Ryokan Suggestions] [Tsubo-yu Onsen]
Tsubo-yu Onsen is one of the oldest onsens in Japan, dating back to the stream's discovery about 1,500 years ago. The site is well-maintained and the onsen is set into the stream itself. Tickets must be obtained from the public onsen attendant down the road, and each ticket is valid for a predetermined 30-minute time slot. Also note that Tsubo-yu, unlike the public onsen, is private and therefore not separated by gender and open for couples. Just remember to keep an eye on the clock! After a long day of hiking, resting weary bodies and sore feet in the onsen waters, time has a tendency to fly by.
Picture 1. Entrance to Tsubo-yu. There is a latch so that the onsen is locked from the inside. Picture 2. Stairway down into the onsen. Picture 3. The onsen has a bluish hue, but don't let that fool you! The water seeps in from the stream itself and is incredibly hot, even by onsen standards.
The onsen is only partially shielded from the outdoors, with the alternating wooden slats allowing for a decent amount of airflow. This is quite welcome following the initial chill since the stream is incredibly hot. Nothing is better than the refreshing feeling of cold winter air on the face while relaxing in a hot onsen.
We found Yunomine so delightful that we decided to extend our stay. During the day, we hiked the Kumano Kodo trails in the surrounding hills and valleys. The evenings we spent lounging in the onsens and enjoying relaxing traditional Japanese-style meals before sleeping on tatami in our ryokan. If anything, Yunomine is an experience of stepping back through time to a place relatively unchanged from several hundred years ago, a good blend of modern convenience with traditional experiences and accommodations. The next time we hike the Kumano Kodo, we will definitely be back!
----
----
Coming up next, hiking the Kumano Kodo trail in Wakayama, Japan!
Previous post: Traveling from Kyoto on the road to Kumano
----
Related Posts
Touring the private island of Koh Thalu in the Gulf of Thailand
Attending the International Balloon Festival in Chiang Rai
A trip for business and fun to Singapore
 |
| A tourist strolling through the small mountainside town of Yunomine in Wakayama Prefecture |
Yunomine (pronounced “you-nah-min-ayy”) is a delightful mountain village that Tiger and Bird immediately fell in love with. Surrounded by cozy Japanese inns and houses, a hot stream - fed by boiling, mineral-rich water rising naturally out of the ground - flows lazily down the hillside, creating plumes of steam in the frosty winter night air. Central to the town is a public onsen fed by the hot waters of the stream. The crown jewel of Yunomine is Tsubo-yu Onsen, a small wooden, partially open-air cabin built over the natural hot spring waters of the stream itself. Tsubo-yu is one of the oldest onsens in Japan (perhaps discovered more than 1,500 years ago according to our innkeeper) and holds the distinction of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tiger and Bird strongly recommend that anyone who plans to hike the Kumano Kodo trail MUST book at least one night in this quaint and isolated mountain village.
The town has a small general store and several drink vending machines selling sake and other alcoholic (and non-alcoholic) beverages. The bus stop, located near the public onsen in the center of the town, is a prominent stopping point for multiple buses traveling East-West to major train stations on either side of the Kumano region (the port cities of Tanabe in the East, and Shingu in the West). That’s about it- onsens, ryoken, and clean mountain air basically make up Yunomine. Oh, and if you’re interested in staying in Yunomine, bear in mind that this village is a very popular location- be sure to book your preferred inn (read on for our suggestions) at least several months in advance!
 |
| Yunomine just after dusk. The naturally hot stream that passes through the town is mineral rich and great for boiling eggs! |
Yunomine is a relatively sleepy town during the day. Visitors are hiking the nearby Kumano trails while the sun is up, and wearily resting in the evening hours in the various inns and public and private onsens. The real charm of the village starts around 4:30 PM, just before the early darkness of the mountains descends.
 |
| View of the public onsen at night. The traveler in the orange jacket is purchasing a ticket from the attendant |
If you're familiar with Japanese cuisine, onsen tamago (onsen egg) can be a nice accompaniment for breakfast! This low-temperature egg was traditionally cooked in nets in hot onsens, giving the cooked egg a delightfully creamy texture. Here in Yunomine, there is a cooking onsen located in the center of the village (public use, free of charge). Tiger and Bird enjoyed cooking eggs here in the hot river on several occasions.
 |
| Stairs to the boiling-hot stream that flows through the village. Travelers can cook eggs and other food in the stream. |
Lodgings
[Top] [Ryokan Suggestions] [Tsubo-yu Onsen]
 |
| Ryokan Adumaya is centrally located near the bus stop and opposite the public onsen |
Tiger and Bird spent about thirty minutes selecting a Ryokan for Yunomine, but we did run into several very good options across a wide budget range. We recommend, if possible, that visitors consider splurging here and cutting a bit elsewhere to get the full mountain village experience!
Ryokan Adumaya. Best in class. Cost $300/night for two people. Traditional Japanese facilities and comfort with great location, food, and service. This ryokan is centrally located in the village, across from both the bus stop and public onsen. Tsubo-yu is also located only a few steps away! Oh, for those lazy folks who are driving, this inn also is one of only a few in Yunomine that has a private parking lot.
J-Hoppers Yunomine . Cost $100/night for two people in a private room. J-Hoppers is a popular chain among backpackers, and, having talked to multiple travelers staying there in Yunomine, appeared to be clean and an excellent choice for those on a budget. Dorm room beds also available, but the private rooms apparently are an excellent alternative to a regular ryokan. Location up the hill from the center of town, but very walkable (less than 100m distance).
Yunominesou. Cost $200/night for two people. This spa complex is not in the village of Yunomine itself but located about 600m down the hill from the public onsen. The facilities are dated but food and service excellent. Also, for those booking early enough, rooms are available that have a nice view of the valley below. Originally, Tiger and Bird had planned to stay here, but the inn was fully booked by the time we were ready to place our reservations.
 |
| Walking up the road through Yunomine Village |
Tsubo-yu Onsen
[Top] [Ryokan Suggestions] [Tsubo-yu Onsen]
 |
| Tsubo-yu Onsen needs to be reserved well ahead of time - each thirty minute slot fills up quickly in the evening! |
Tsubo-yu Onsen is one of the oldest onsens in Japan, dating back to the stream's discovery about 1,500 years ago. The site is well-maintained and the onsen is set into the stream itself. Tickets must be obtained from the public onsen attendant down the road, and each ticket is valid for a predetermined 30-minute time slot. Also note that Tsubo-yu, unlike the public onsen, is private and therefore not separated by gender and open for couples. Just remember to keep an eye on the clock! After a long day of hiking, resting weary bodies and sore feet in the onsen waters, time has a tendency to fly by.
 |
| Tsubo-yu onsen feels like stepping back into a forgotten past |
The onsen is only partially shielded from the outdoors, with the alternating wooden slats allowing for a decent amount of airflow. This is quite welcome following the initial chill since the stream is incredibly hot. Nothing is better than the refreshing feeling of cold winter air on the face while relaxing in a hot onsen.
 |
| The onsen is incredibly hot! Be sure to use plenty of cold water to cool down the onsen when in use. |
We found Yunomine so delightful that we decided to extend our stay. During the day, we hiked the Kumano Kodo trails in the surrounding hills and valleys. The evenings we spent lounging in the onsens and enjoying relaxing traditional Japanese-style meals before sleeping on tatami in our ryokan. If anything, Yunomine is an experience of stepping back through time to a place relatively unchanged from several hundred years ago, a good blend of modern convenience with traditional experiences and accommodations. The next time we hike the Kumano Kodo, we will definitely be back!
----
----
Coming up next, hiking the Kumano Kodo trail in Wakayama, Japan!
Previous post: Traveling from Kyoto on the road to Kumano
----
Related Posts
Touring the private island of Koh Thalu in the Gulf of Thailand
Attending the International Balloon Festival in Chiang Rai
A trip for business and fun to Singapore
