[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
Beautiful visages of exotic mountainsides shrouded in the fiery yellows and reds of autumn. Long, winding trails of the millennium-old Kumano Kodo pilgrimage paths snaking its way through untamed forests. Spectacular cliffs, and quaint villages nestled in the mysterious Kii mountains. Plumes of steam rising from naturally hot riverbeds gently heating the frosty night air. Yes, this is Japan. A rural and authentic Japan. Tiger and Bird were stoked. After several years of planning and multiple postponed starts, we were finally embarking on this magical trek across the ancient Kii mountain trails!
Here Tiger would like to give a shout out to DK – of Kyoto, with a family background from the Mie Prefecture – for a wonderful trip to his hometown, admirable hospitality while touring the region, and a brief stay with his family (you know who you are!). Onigajo (a seaside volcanic formation known as “the devil’s house”) and Maruyama Senmaida (1,000 rice paddies built into a mountainside) were added to our route by DK. As a side note, our own preparation for the Kumano Kodo trail exceeded 30 hours- a time commitment necessary to determine the exact paths we planned to take among other details (food, lodging, transportation). Originally, we planned for the full five-day hike.
This story is told over three separate posts. On the third post we will cover the Kumano Kodo hike as well as provide some details that will hopefully shorten planning time for posterity. The chronology of places visited in this series of posts is roughly accurate, although our actual trip was spread out a bit longer and included additional stops. Note that while we don’t usually post pictures of ourselves, we’ll include some here for a better sense of scale (faces blurred since we tend to like our privacy!).
Tiger and Bird arrived at Kansai International Airport in the early morning hours of a cold November day. The weather for our trip had been forecast as fantastic- all sunshine and no rain, and this time the weather person was (surprisingly) correct. Walking up to border control with a smile and a good morning in English, the agent took a cursory glance at our passports and quickly waved us on. “Arigato” we replied, retrieving our passports and moving towards the area to pick up our checked luggage. We passed through without a problem, picked up a prepaid SIM card, and quickly walked through the terminal. Everything was moving very smoothly.
Picture 1. The brightly lit airport terminal was clean and efficient. Picture 2. It’s a meeee, Mariooo! We were quite pleased to be greeted by a friendly a familiar face. Picture 3. Although everything in Japan seems fun and cute, this little guy was not smiling at us!
The quick efficiency we experienced at the airport slammed to a halt when we reached the train station ticket counter. Or, more accurately, ticket counters. Multiple rail companies had separate offices and separate ticket schemes. One of the offices had a long line snaking around the frosty outdoors, with cold fog still lingering in the bright sunlight. Tiger and Bird looked at each other.
“No way. That couldn’t be our line.” Bird said.
“Yeah. There must be a ticket machine or something! Those people must be waiting to talk to an agent.” Tiger replied, with a laugh. But lo and behold, we soon realized that although we knew exactly which ticket we needed, there was no ticket machine for us and we were destined to wait in line for about an hour before beginning our journey.
Japan Railway’s Haruka Express train to Osaka Station (not to be confused with the nearby shinkansen’s Shin-Osaka station!) from Kansai airport was relatively quick with ample room for our luggage. Osaka Station turned out to be a massive train terminal with many signs and multiple train lines that proved nearly unintelligible for us tourists. The language gap was a big issue that we had not expected. For about half an hour, we – even as veteran travelers with experience navigating public transportation in nearly every Asian nation – were clueless and confused. Google Maps proved to be nearly useless as well, suggesting trains from multiple platforms serviced by multiple providers that were not referenced in the step-by-step directions (Japan Railway tickets only work for Japan Railway trains, we were scolded while trying to pass through one gate).
What felt like an eternity and several very kind passerbys and one particularly helpful conductor (who spoke some English!) later, we found ourselves chatting with a Hawaiian couple while waiting on our train to Kyoto. Naturally, the discussion revolved around how the train system worked and what tickets to buy. The husband admitted, with some chagrin, that although he was half-Japanese by ethnicity and spoke some Japanese, he too sometimes struggled navigating the train systems. We quickly exchanged a few small parting gifts as we all boarded the train to Kyoto. The trip was short and pleasant. The train was very clean and periodically played cute tunes announcing an upcoming stop.
Picture 1. A highway tunnel underneath one of the larger hills. Picture 2. We were surprised to see a Redbull car driving into the countryside! Picture 3. Stunning hill formations that grew larger and larger as we went further Southeast towards the ocean
After some time, we pulled into a rest stop nestled between hills covered in pine trees. We walked up to the three-story building and decided to eat at the small, Japanese-style eatery on the ground floor. After placing our orders with a vending-style machine (different buttons corresponded to different meals- think sashimi or tonkatsu), we paid the cashier and sat down while waiting for our food. Soon enough, the buzzer lit up and we picked up lunch. It was freshly prepared from the kitchen and delicious. While waiting, a tourist representative for the Kumano region, who was eating nearby, briefly said hello while asking us about our trip.
We continued driving towards the coast, now heading to the southwest, still deeper into Mie Prefecture and fast approaching the Kumano region. After what seemed like a short while, we arrived at the “devil’s house”.
Onigajo
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
Onigajo is a seaside cliff face and rock formation located near the fishing village of Isozakicho in Kumano. Tiger and Bird had heard tales of the abode of this terrifying entity. Rocky, volcanic cliffs bashed and scarred by the elements until the twisted, mangled formations that remained appear otherworldly; this in stark contrast to the well-manicured hills and beaches of the surrounding area. There was also a random sign that seemed to indicate this was the chosen abode for pirates at some point in history.
As a tourist location, Onigajo is great. There is ample free parking and a large building with restaurants serving snacks and small souvenir shops. The walkways are well maintained leading down to Onigajo as well. However, after stepping through the small tunnel that leads out onto the rocks, the area changes quite a bit. Gone were the smooth walkways surfaces and we found ourselves out on rock, granted well-manicured rock around the main path.
Picture 1. Stairway leading down to the main chamber of Onigajo. Picture 2. The cliffs are quite large, as Bird is demonstrating here. Picture 3. Another stairway leading further along the rock formation
Picture 1. Main door into Onigajo. The floor is ribbed and pocked, although for this area the ridges are smoothed down. Picture 2. Common appearance of the rock for Onigajo. Picture 3. Tiger standing on the “front porch” near the sea
The tourist maps are surprisingly detailed, although please note that the language is all in Japanese. Keep Google translate ready! Some of the attractions listed here like Mount Nachi’s waterfall and Dorohaccho valley intersect with popular Kumano Kodo trails (more on the trail in next month’s post).
Tiger and bird were taken aback by the blending of nature and developed towns along the coastline further into Kumano. Expansive, empty shorelines gleamed against a late afternoon sun. Yet, even so, massive seaward-facing concrete bulwarks of at least 3m in height had been erected as buffers against the tame ocean waters sitting far away. Evidently these buffers are designed for large ocean storms and Tsunami waves. This makes sense if only by realizing the literal translation from Japanese for Tsunami is harbor wave (although in the West the word is of course reserved for large waves caused by undersea earthquakes and the like). Soon we again headed inland, with the terrain quickly becoming more rugged and mountainous.
Picture 1. Driving between hills by farmland. Picture 2. A small town situated in the valley. Picture 3. Low-lying houses nestled between green fields
Picture 1. Driving along a two-way road that can only really accommodate a single vehicle (there is a steep drop down a forested cliff on the left). The mirrors proved to be very necessary! Picture 2. The forests are quite beautiful in the afternoon sunlight. Picture 3. A brief break in the trees above a cliff face provides a great opportunity to see the valley!
As we continued along tiny, winding roads clinging to the sides of large hills – often little wider than the car itself – Tiger began to wonder what would happen if we ran into another car going in the opposite direction (this road was marked as two-way). Thankfully, we never found out. The forest soon began to thin and we had our first glimpse of Maruyama Senmaida between the trees.
Maruyama Senmaida
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
Maruyama Senmaida is a collection of terraced rice patties set into a large hill in Kumano. This particular location was once rumored to have 1,000 rice patties (hence the name senmaida), although our estimates when doing a quick count seemed to indicate there are far less these days! The place is incredible to see, although the fields in late November are of course dry and barren ahead of the winter season. To see the hill in all of its glory, a visit in the July – August months, which is just before harvest, is best. Note that although Maruyama Senmaida is a tourist attraction, it is primarily an active rice field and tourist facilities as well as parking areas are virtually nonexistent.
Picture 1. Winding road snaking down through the rice paddies. We came from the narrow mountain road at the top and drove down the hill. Picture 2. A massive boulder, considerably larger than even most houses in the USA, sits in the middle of the hill. Pictures 3. Stuning view of Maruyama Senmaida as the sun prepares to set behind the nearby hills.
After taking a few minutes to stop by the road and admire the surreal scene before us, we proceeded to drive to the top of the hill and gradually make our way down the winding road into the valley below. By this time the afternoon sun was beginning to wane and evening was fast approaching. The area was mostly deserted and we sighted no tourists and only a few locals.
The sun shone brilliantly against the small stone walls that lined road and terraced rice paddies, contrasting against the distant dark blues of the nearby hills. As the path snaked backwards and forwards across the face of the hill, we passed one sweet shop and a number of houses before we were off to find our lodging further down in the valley. Soon the cold air of darkness would envelope us, and a night abounding with Japanese snacks and many glasses of hot sake would begin!
Tiger and Bird awoke early after a night of deep and fulfilling sleep. The faint smell of bamboo from the tatami filled the room. Groggily making our way out into the frosty morning air, we found ourselves amid gold-tinged fields of winter, watching early morning fog rolling into the valley from the hills and mountains above. Life in the small towns of Kumano is paced much more slowly than the fast-moving nearby cities of Osaka and Kyoto. Life perhaps feels more authentic to traditional Japan and less impacted by the modernization and rapid changes of recent centuries. After a traditional Japanese breakfast, we bid farewell to our friendly and gracious hosts and proceeded back into the mountains. Today we were searching for waterfalls and other natural wonders, before proceeding to the mountain village of Yunomine.
Picture 1. Fog rolling over the mountains into the valley. The area is heavily agrarian; houses and small fields seemingly fill whatever flat areas exist. Picture 2. Roadway following a small stream along the valley floor. Picture 3. Rural Japanese houses lining the road across from some fields
Our trip was now well into Kumano, driving narrow mountain roads with steep drop-offs on the one side and steep ascents on the other. Gone were the populated areas of the valley, and we were on our own- driving onwards, every once and again gingerly passing another car headed in the opposite direction. Signs, as well as some road damage, warned us of the dangers from falling rocks from above. In some areas, broken stones and other rubble collected near the edge of the road. After some time along these mountain roads, we approached the three-tiered Nunobikino waterfall.
Kumano Waterfalls
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
The three-tiered Nunobikino Falls in Kumano (not be confused with a waterfall of the same name outside the city of Kobe) is set into the hills nearby the narrow mountain road we were traveling. The signage for the waterfall is quite small, but there is a very small parking area at the side of the road for those wishing to go down to the pool at the base of the falls. The trek itself is neither difficult nor far, so of course we all decided to rise to the challenge!
Picture 1. The three tiers of Nunobikino falls. Picture 2. Boulders and other stones litter the forest floor on the path down to the base of the falls. Picture 3. Dark waters of the pool below the falls. The water is also a beautiful acqua color in the shallower areas (not seen in here).
The brief exercise was a nice break to our drive. We then continued onwards through the forests. Now and again the stonework of old steps and small support walls appeared, with wooden signs denoting that these intersecting mountain paths were part of the Kumano Kodo trail network. Small shrines also occasionally appeared beside the road.
The streams flowing down through the mountains were beautiful against the backdrop of the fading autumn leaves of the forest. But our time driving through small mountain roads was now complete, and we were now headed back to the faster roads that lined the Kumano River.
After several more activities, which for brevity's sake we will not include, we drove onwards to our destination: the mountain village of Yunomine.
Yunomine
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
Yunomine is beautiful and one of the highlights of our trek along the Kumano Kodo trail. Within this delightful town is Tsubo-yu Onsen, a UNESCO heritage site and one of the oldest onsens in Japan. Several thirty minute onsen sessions directly in the hot river within this rustic wooden shed almost makes the trip worth it in and of itself! Read more about Yunomine and Tsubo-Yu Onsen in our next post.
Our arrival was in the late afternoon, with dusk fast approaching. Life in the mountains of Kumano appears to shut down quite early, with darkness falling shortly after 5pm. As such, Tiger and Bird - gladly - enjoyed a session in a private onsen before taking rest and preparing for the rigor of the following day. Yes, our trek along the Kumano Kodo trail was finally about to begin. But first, let's explore Yunomine!
----
----
Coming up next, exploring the mountain village of Yunomine and Tsubo-yu Onsen!
Previous post Exploring sleepy Kanchanaburi and visiting the Bridge over the River Kwai
----
Related Posts
Off to Singapore! A quick tour of all that the city state's central business district has to offer!
Road trip to the capitol of Siam from long ago- the ancient city of Sukhothai
A visit to the biggest and most authentic floating market in Thailand: Amphawa
 |
| The Kumano River moving slowly through the vast, stony riverbed in Wakayama, Japan |
Here Tiger would like to give a shout out to DK – of Kyoto, with a family background from the Mie Prefecture – for a wonderful trip to his hometown, admirable hospitality while touring the region, and a brief stay with his family (you know who you are!). Onigajo (a seaside volcanic formation known as “the devil’s house”) and Maruyama Senmaida (1,000 rice paddies built into a mountainside) were added to our route by DK. As a side note, our own preparation for the Kumano Kodo trail exceeded 30 hours- a time commitment necessary to determine the exact paths we planned to take among other details (food, lodging, transportation). Originally, we planned for the full five-day hike.
This story is told over three separate posts. On the third post we will cover the Kumano Kodo hike as well as provide some details that will hopefully shorten planning time for posterity. The chronology of places visited in this series of posts is roughly accurate, although our actual trip was spread out a bit longer and included additional stops. Note that while we don’t usually post pictures of ourselves, we’ll include some here for a better sense of scale (faces blurred since we tend to like our privacy!).
 |
| Plane parked at the terminal of Kansai International Airport |
The quick efficiency we experienced at the airport slammed to a halt when we reached the train station ticket counter. Or, more accurately, ticket counters. Multiple rail companies had separate offices and separate ticket schemes. One of the offices had a long line snaking around the frosty outdoors, with cold fog still lingering in the bright sunlight. Tiger and Bird looked at each other.
“No way. That couldn’t be our line.” Bird said.
“Yeah. There must be a ticket machine or something! Those people must be waiting to talk to an agent.” Tiger replied, with a laugh. But lo and behold, we soon realized that although we knew exactly which ticket we needed, there was no ticket machine for us and we were destined to wait in line for about an hour before beginning our journey.
 |
| Osaka Station is housed in a huge, modern building with many platforms serviced by several providers. Connected to this station are several massive complexes of shopping malls and hotels! |
Japan Railway’s Haruka Express train to Osaka Station (not to be confused with the nearby shinkansen’s Shin-Osaka station!) from Kansai airport was relatively quick with ample room for our luggage. Osaka Station turned out to be a massive train terminal with many signs and multiple train lines that proved nearly unintelligible for us tourists. The language gap was a big issue that we had not expected. For about half an hour, we – even as veteran travelers with experience navigating public transportation in nearly every Asian nation – were clueless and confused. Google Maps proved to be nearly useless as well, suggesting trains from multiple platforms serviced by multiple providers that were not referenced in the step-by-step directions (Japan Railway tickets only work for Japan Railway trains, we were scolded while trying to pass through one gate).
 |
| The shopping complex immediately outside the Japanese Railway gates at Osaka Station. Although the guard is looking right at the camera as I took the picture, he ended up passing us by. |
What felt like an eternity and several very kind passerbys and one particularly helpful conductor (who spoke some English!) later, we found ourselves chatting with a Hawaiian couple while waiting on our train to Kyoto. Naturally, the discussion revolved around how the train system worked and what tickets to buy. The husband admitted, with some chagrin, that although he was half-Japanese by ethnicity and spoke some Japanese, he too sometimes struggled navigating the train systems. We quickly exchanged a few small parting gifts as we all boarded the train to Kyoto. The trip was short and pleasant. The train was very clean and periodically played cute tunes announcing an upcoming stop.
A tale of Japan Railway’s Kansai Regional PassWe quickly met DK outside of the Kyoto terminal and began our journey deep into Mie Prefecture. In addition to the natural beauty of Japan is the beauty of the country’s infrastructure. As far as developed countries go, Japan is the DEFINITION of fully developed. Well-paved and well-marked roads took the car through the city and the urban areas towards a region that grew increasingly wild and mountainous. Even in the more deserted areas, the roadways were still well-maintained. Eventually, the highway began to occasionally give way to well-lit tunnels weaving underneath the larger hills. And, to the astonishment of us native Bangkokians, the traffic on this highway for the entire drive was virtually nonexistent.
Japanese trains operate under private and semi-private organizations. Japan Railways is not a single organization, but rather a series of private companies in which each Japanese region is controlled and administered by a separate, distinct Japan Railways entity. This matters when a customer, like us, wants a specific region pass- in this case, a Kansai Rail Pass. Within the massive Kyoto Station, we discovered five separate ticket offices representing five separate regional branches of Japan Railways. But our rail pass could only be purchased from the Kansai Japan Railway office. It was all very confusing, made even more so when multiple offices directed us to the wrong other offices (three times). Each trip represented about a fifteen minute walk since the station is huge. Finally, a kind conductor, seeing our dilemna, brought us most of the way to the office we needed. *Note that the general Japan rail pass is very easy to both purchase and use. The Kansai regional pass is where we experienced some difficulty*
 |
| Highway through Mie Prefecture. In the hill up ahead is one of the first tunnels we approached. |
 |
| Fishing village of Isozakicho, near the highway on the route heading southwest in Mie Prefecture |
 |
| Hotel Nami is situated high above an abutment the protects a small harbor and large beach. The huge concrete beams piled together to protect the ships speaks volumes about the temperament of nearby seas. |
After some time, we pulled into a rest stop nestled between hills covered in pine trees. We walked up to the three-story building and decided to eat at the small, Japanese-style eatery on the ground floor. After placing our orders with a vending-style machine (different buttons corresponded to different meals- think sashimi or tonkatsu), we paid the cashier and sat down while waiting for our food. Soon enough, the buzzer lit up and we picked up lunch. It was freshly prepared from the kitchen and delicious. While waiting, a tourist representative for the Kumano region, who was eating nearby, briefly said hello while asking us about our trip.
We continued driving towards the coast, now heading to the southwest, still deeper into Mie Prefecture and fast approaching the Kumano region. After what seemed like a short while, we arrived at the “devil’s house”.
Onigajo
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
 |
| Onigajo. Uneven stairways over broken and baron volcanic rock are testaments to the harshness of the elements |
Onigajo is a seaside cliff face and rock formation located near the fishing village of Isozakicho in Kumano. Tiger and Bird had heard tales of the abode of this terrifying entity. Rocky, volcanic cliffs bashed and scarred by the elements until the twisted, mangled formations that remained appear otherworldly; this in stark contrast to the well-manicured hills and beaches of the surrounding area. There was also a random sign that seemed to indicate this was the chosen abode for pirates at some point in history.
 |
| This sign marks Onigajo. Yes, the sign is in Japanese- but you can take Tiger’s word for it! |
As a tourist location, Onigajo is great. There is ample free parking and a large building with restaurants serving snacks and small souvenir shops. The walkways are well maintained leading down to Onigajo as well. However, after stepping through the small tunnel that leads out onto the rocks, the area changes quite a bit. Gone were the smooth walkways surfaces and we found ourselves out on rock, granted well-manicured rock around the main path.
 |
| Tourist map at Onigajo. This image is uncompressed in case you would like to take a closer look! |
The tourist maps are surprisingly detailed, although please note that the language is all in Japanese. Keep Google translate ready! Some of the attractions listed here like Mount Nachi’s waterfall and Dorohaccho valley intersect with popular Kumano Kodo trails (more on the trail in next month’s post).
 |
| Entrance “chamber” of Onigajo, contrasting the barren rock face with the surrounding landscape |
 |
| Black sand beaches near the Shishi-iwa (Lion Rock) landmark |
Tiger and bird were taken aback by the blending of nature and developed towns along the coastline further into Kumano. Expansive, empty shorelines gleamed against a late afternoon sun. Yet, even so, massive seaward-facing concrete bulwarks of at least 3m in height had been erected as buffers against the tame ocean waters sitting far away. Evidently these buffers are designed for large ocean storms and Tsunami waves. This makes sense if only by realizing the literal translation from Japanese for Tsunami is harbor wave (although in the West the word is of course reserved for large waves caused by undersea earthquakes and the like). Soon we again headed inland, with the terrain quickly becoming more rugged and mountainous.
As we continued along tiny, winding roads clinging to the sides of large hills – often little wider than the car itself – Tiger began to wonder what would happen if we ran into another car going in the opposite direction (this road was marked as two-way). Thankfully, we never found out. The forest soon began to thin and we had our first glimpse of Maruyama Senmaida between the trees.
Maruyama Senmaida
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
 |
| The “1,000” terraced rice paddies of Maruyama Senmaida in late fall |
Maruyama Senmaida is a collection of terraced rice patties set into a large hill in Kumano. This particular location was once rumored to have 1,000 rice patties (hence the name senmaida), although our estimates when doing a quick count seemed to indicate there are far less these days! The place is incredible to see, although the fields in late November are of course dry and barren ahead of the winter season. To see the hill in all of its glory, a visit in the July – August months, which is just before harvest, is best. Note that although Maruyama Senmaida is a tourist attraction, it is primarily an active rice field and tourist facilities as well as parking areas are virtually nonexistent.
After taking a few minutes to stop by the road and admire the surreal scene before us, we proceeded to drive to the top of the hill and gradually make our way down the winding road into the valley below. By this time the afternoon sun was beginning to wane and evening was fast approaching. The area was mostly deserted and we sighted no tourists and only a few locals.
 |
| View from the top Maruyama Senmaida facing the winding valley in the distance |
 |
| Several locals talking at the side of the road, set against the majestic backdrop of the nearby mountains |
The sun shone brilliantly against the small stone walls that lined road and terraced rice paddies, contrasting against the distant dark blues of the nearby hills. As the path snaked backwards and forwards across the face of the hill, we passed one sweet shop and a number of houses before we were off to find our lodging further down in the valley. Soon the cold air of darkness would envelope us, and a night abounding with Japanese snacks and many glasses of hot sake would begin!
Ryokin in the Kumano region
Planing a trip to Kumano? Always look for ryokin inns that have natural hot spring onsens! Nothing is better than soaking in steaming, mineral-rich natural spring water after a day of hiking and exploring. For the uninitiated, a Ryokan is a small, Japanese-style inn that is floored with tatami (traditional bamboo straw mats) and typically has sliding doors and other traditional Japanese amenities.
 |
| Morning fog moving down from the mountains and into the valley |
Tiger and Bird awoke early after a night of deep and fulfilling sleep. The faint smell of bamboo from the tatami filled the room. Groggily making our way out into the frosty morning air, we found ourselves amid gold-tinged fields of winter, watching early morning fog rolling into the valley from the hills and mountains above. Life in the small towns of Kumano is paced much more slowly than the fast-moving nearby cities of Osaka and Kyoto. Life perhaps feels more authentic to traditional Japan and less impacted by the modernization and rapid changes of recent centuries. After a traditional Japanese breakfast, we bid farewell to our friendly and gracious hosts and proceeded back into the mountains. Today we were searching for waterfalls and other natural wonders, before proceeding to the mountain village of Yunomine.
Our trip was now well into Kumano, driving narrow mountain roads with steep drop-offs on the one side and steep ascents on the other. Gone were the populated areas of the valley, and we were on our own- driving onwards, every once and again gingerly passing another car headed in the opposite direction. Signs, as well as some road damage, warned us of the dangers from falling rocks from above. In some areas, broken stones and other rubble collected near the edge of the road. After some time along these mountain roads, we approached the three-tiered Nunobikino waterfall.
Kumano Waterfalls
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
 |
| Nunobikino Falls in Kumano |
The three-tiered Nunobikino Falls in Kumano (not be confused with a waterfall of the same name outside the city of Kobe) is set into the hills nearby the narrow mountain road we were traveling. The signage for the waterfall is quite small, but there is a very small parking area at the side of the road for those wishing to go down to the pool at the base of the falls. The trek itself is neither difficult nor far, so of course we all decided to rise to the challenge!
The brief exercise was a nice break to our drive. We then continued onwards through the forests. Now and again the stonework of old steps and small support walls appeared, with wooden signs denoting that these intersecting mountain paths were part of the Kumano Kodo trail network. Small shrines also occasionally appeared beside the road.
 |
| Arataki Waterfall in Kumano |
The streams flowing down through the mountains were beautiful against the backdrop of the fading autumn leaves of the forest. But our time driving through small mountain roads was now complete, and we were now headed back to the faster roads that lined the Kumano River.
 |
| Industry appears to be active in limited areas around Kumano; one example being the piles of timber in front of some of the heavily forested hills |
After several more activities, which for brevity's sake we will not include, we drove onwards to our destination: the mountain village of Yunomine.
Yunomine
[Top] [Onigajo] [Maruyama Senmaida] [Waterfalls] [Yunomine]
 |
| Yunomine is nestled around a natural hot river in the Kii mountains |
Yunomine is beautiful and one of the highlights of our trek along the Kumano Kodo trail. Within this delightful town is Tsubo-yu Onsen, a UNESCO heritage site and one of the oldest onsens in Japan. Several thirty minute onsen sessions directly in the hot river within this rustic wooden shed almost makes the trip worth it in and of itself! Read more about Yunomine and Tsubo-Yu Onsen in our next post.
Our arrival was in the late afternoon, with dusk fast approaching. Life in the mountains of Kumano appears to shut down quite early, with darkness falling shortly after 5pm. As such, Tiger and Bird - gladly - enjoyed a session in a private onsen before taking rest and preparing for the rigor of the following day. Yes, our trek along the Kumano Kodo trail was finally about to begin. But first, let's explore Yunomine!
----
----
Coming up next, exploring the mountain village of Yunomine and Tsubo-yu Onsen!
Previous post Exploring sleepy Kanchanaburi and visiting the Bridge over the River Kwai
----
Related Posts
Off to Singapore! A quick tour of all that the city state's central business district has to offer!
Road trip to the capitol of Siam from long ago- the ancient city of Sukhothai
A visit to the biggest and most authentic floating market in Thailand: Amphawa
