Bangkok at night. Images and content © Chris
Bangkok at night. Images and content © Chris

Sunday, March 31, 2019

Exploring the Resort Town of Hua Hin

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Northern side of Hua Hin beach
Brilliant, white sand beaches under a burning sun. Thai-style resorts interspersed with high-end luxury hotels near sleepy towns. An authentic seaside vacation in the tropics. Hua Hin is all these things and more- a look back to what Thailand’s coastal resorts may have been like twenty or thirty years ago, but with the addition of modern conveniences, if desired. Lesser known than its nightlife-crazed sister city of Pattaya across the Gulf of Thailand, Hua Hin is often the preferred destination for a quiet weekend away from Bangkok for long-term expats and Thai locals.

And why not? The white-sand beaches and ocean waters are cleaner, there are fewer tourists moving about, and oceanside resorts tend to be cheaper and arguably nicer than other locations near the capitol. If there is one downside to visiting Hua Hin, it’s that mobility is limited. Navigating the area outside of the small and dense downtown can be difficult (read: expensive or time-consuming) without a car.

Hua Hin is situated around 200km (125mi) to the southeast of Bangkok. Due to limited industrial development relative to Rayong (Pattaya), there are only several main local roads leading to the city (no highways- yet!). A small airport and a ferry service with Pattaya and some of the southern islands (Koh Samui, Koh Tao) provide additional accessibility. The small region of Cha-am lies between Hua Hin and Bangkok, and the delightfully rustic area of Pranburi lies beyond (Tiger and Bird covered this area in an earlier post).
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Hua Hin is one of the first beach resort towns in Thailand, originally established in the early 19th century by a group of farmers. About one hundred years later, the Thai Royal family began building palaces nearby and named the beach Hua Hin. The town adopted the name, and Hua Hin’s white sand beach remains a very popular destination to this day.

When people talk about Hua Hin beach, they are often referring to the beach situated between fisherman’s pier and Monkey island to the south. Tiger and Bird personally prefer this beach as well, although it can become crowded during holidays. The denser areas of old Hua Hin town, which is located around and to the north of fisherman's pier, also has a beautiful, less-sheltered beach best visited at low tide.

Picture 1. North side of Hua Hin, with the Hua Hin Fishing Pier and Hilton Hua Hin Resort and Spa seen in the distance. Picture 2. One of the paths connecting small roads parallel with the shore with the beachfront

The older section of Hua Hin town consists of mainly small sois (streets) that are best for walking. Numerous shops, restaurants, and massage parlors (mostly legitimate) populate the old town. Tiger and Bird recommend taking a stroll through this area in the evening hours!

Picture 1. Small sois (streets) in Hua Hin town nearby the fishing pier and Hilton hotel. Picture 2. A "walking street" in Hua Hin town

Finally, we come to the beautiful white sand southern beach of Hua Hin. Here, the partially-sheltered bay has pristine white sand and an abundance of activity. The locals often come out to enjoy the ocean once the sun has begun to descend, but tourists abound and various activities are also available throughout the day.

South Side of Hua Hin beach

Monkey Mountain ("Chopsticks Hill")

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Monkey Island and Wat Khao Takiap lie at the southern end of Hua Hin beach

At the far end of Hua Hin beach, and about 6km to the south of Hua Hin town proper, is Monkey Mountain, or locally known as Chopsticks Hill (as translated from Khao Takiab, the Thai name for the place). The beach comes to an abrupt end at the small, rocky hill, which sticks out almost like a peninsula from the beachfront. Here are an abundance of small shops and eateries as the beach comes to the end. On the mainland, the far side of the hill, is a small, local fishman's market where seafood can be purchased at insanely low prices (you can even see the colorful fishing boats docked nearby).

The hill can be climbed by a series of paths that eventually lead to steep stone staircases that pass by a Chinese temple and several observation points that provide wonderful views of Hua Hin. For those feeling less industrious, especially under the intense heat of a tropical sun, you can also drive to the top of the hill.

Picture 1.View of Hua Hin beach from the top of Monkey Mountain. Picture 2. Small shops near the base of Monkey Mountain selling trinkets to tourists. The prices tend to be slightly higher than in other areas but can still be a good bargain!

As you start up the mountain, one quickly realizes exactly why this place is called Monkey Mountain- monkeys are everywhere! Around some of the shops selling food to feed the monkeys, hundreds can be seen waiting for tourists to feed them. Here, Tiger and Bird would like to caution that, while monkey can look very cute and cuddly, their temperaments vary wildly and in groups they can become quite vicious. The monkeys in the photo below were well-behaved at first, but as soon as the woman dropped some food for them, a skirmish occurred as each monkey dashed around as they fought for every morsel.

Monkeys look cute and cuddly, but especially in groups, they can become quite nasty if they don't get what they want! Feed at your own risk.

Shopping in Hua Hin

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The one constant across all of Thailand is if there are people, there are markets. Hua Hin town has a nice selection of traditional markets for tourists to visit, including the Hua Hin Night Market and weekend Cicada Market. Some years ago, those desiring to shop in large air-conditioned complexes would have been disappointed. In the last decade or so, this changed when the Market Village Hua Hin and Blueport Hua Hin Resort Mall opened their doors for business.

Market Village Hua Hin
Open daily. This shopping complex is the largest in Hua Hin, with over 150 shops and restaurants, a Major cineplex movie theater, and a Tesco Lotus supermarket. Wonderful Thai food court in the basement (essentially Thai street food at similar costs but much better quality) and a number of international fast food franchises (McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, etc) for those craving a taste of home.

BluePort Hua Hin Resort Mall
Open daily. Newly-opened modern shopping mall with a maritime theme, featuring "higher end" shopping options, a BluePort Cineplex movie theater, and a Gourmet Market supermarket. Here, dining options like Dean and Deluca, The Coffee Club, and Wine Connection can be found as well as a decent Thai food court. Floors tend to follow various maritime themes, ranging from the basement's Portwalk to the Whaley Port kids area on the third floor.

Hua Hin Night Market
Open nightly, getting busier after 6pm. Relatively small outdoor Thai market filled with street vendors and small stalls selling everything from clothing to sourvenirs to massages at affordable prices. Recommend a visit since the atmosphere can be quite nice! If you want to feel less touristy, wander the nearby streets to find more local shops.

Cicada Market
Open Fridays-Sundays, 16:00 - 23:00. Charming upscale, outdoor, weekend market. Best experienced after 5:30pm, once vendors have finished setting up (see photos below). Tiger and Bird strongly recommend visiting this market during your trip to Hua Hin, since it is rather unique compared to other markets in Thailand. The atmosphere is lovely with live music playing, and artwork by many local artisans is available to admire and/or purchase. An open-air theater operates in the evening and at the center of the venue is a food court with many delicious options. Sure, prices may be higher than the other night markets, but the experience is fantastic!

Picture 1. Several visitors admire paintings by local artists. In the background, the two small buildings act as art galleries for local artists. Picture 2. Central eating area at the Cicada Market.

Finally, after a relaxing day on the beach and then exploring the night markets, it's time to turn in for the evening. If you look out your hotel room towards the ocean, you should just begin to see the twinkle of greenish lights light up the horizon. No, these otherworldly glowing beams are not UFOs, but simply fishermen attracting squid to swim near their boats, and closer to their nets.

Green lights of the squid fishermen light up the horizon as those on the mainland prepare for slumber


Sunrise
Sunrise over the southern portion of Hua Hin beach. Notice the calmness of the ocean waters!

The sun rises over the ocean for eastern-facing Hua Hin town, with the sun setting in the hills and mountains behind. Sunrises here can seem surreal when set against a mostly calm ocean (remember, parts of Hua Hin beach are relatively sheltered!). Outside of Bangkok, life is more sabai sabai too, with the locals tending to go to bed and rise much earlier than city folk.

Just after sunrise on Hua Hin beach



Hua Hin Beach Activities

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Taking an early morning stroll on the beach

In the end, sometimes the best way to enjoy a seaside vacation is to just stay on the beach. Early mornings, just after the sun has risen, is the perfect time for that morning job or leisurely stroll along the sand. The heat isn't too intense and the atmosphere is very enjoyable. Up with the sun are the more-industrious touts and vendors, immediately ready to offer horseback rides along the beach or a variety of snacks to tourists and early risers.

Picture 1. Horseback touts relaxing before offering rides to tourists Picture 2. Horseback riding along the beach

Of course, one needn't remain confined to the beach to have fun- all the typical water adventures are also available here. Need a few suggestions? Here you go!
  • Jetski rental. Available from vendors along the beach. Note that cheaper does not always mean better! Ask your hotel for specific recommendations of who to go with.
  • Banana boat ride. Relatively self-explanatory, ride on a banana boat often towed behind a jetski. Great fun for kids, and in Thailand the activity is relatively safe and affordable.
  • Fishing tour. Several boats and cruises can be chartered as part of a larger group or seperately, if desired.
  • Day cruise. Hua Hin is located near several national parks to the immediate south. Several cruises offer a trip around Dolphin Bay, offering a chance to see the rare pink Irrawaddy Dolphins, among other locations.
  • Bike Tours. A bike tour is a good way to see a city and get in some excercise at the same time. Even better is if that day is overcast so that the intense heat of the sun doesn't become overwhelming!
  • Motorcycle/Scooter rental. Available from vendors around the city. Again, cheaper does not always mean better! It's also good practice to leave an ID card as opposed to a passport as security while renting the bike.
  • Kiteboarding. The North Kiteboarding Club offers quality gear with excellent coaching, making the experience fun whether you're new to the sport or a pro. The campus is located several hours south of Hua Hin, and a basic three-hour course costs around ฿4,000 ($130 US; a 3-day course is about ฿11,000 or $350 US). If you're an enthusiast, multi-day packages including lodgings are available at reasonable rates.
  • Paramotors. A paramotor is a relatively slow-moving powered paraglider. Can be great fun to take these for an early morning flight around Hua Hin beach! Tiger and Bird have heard good things about Sky Club Paramotors and the Hua Hin Paramotor School.

Testing out a hydroflight jetpack in the calm waters off of Hua Hin beach

A fleet of small single-person sailboats off of Hua Hin beach

Hua Hin has much to offer, and as Tiger and Bird have become more familiar with the coastal areas of Thailand, we must admit that the beaches found to the southwest of Bangkok have become more and more appealing. A relaxing trip to an area with white sand beaches and fewer tourists can be quite a bit of fun. Move even further south of Hua Hin, and you will find numerous white-sand beaches mostly untouched and widely undeveloped relative to popular tourist destinations. If you're in Bangkok for a visit, stopping by Hua Hin on the way down to Koh Samui, Krabi, or the further afield Similan Islands, may be just what the doctor ordered!


Red at night, sailor's delight. Red in the morning, sailor's warning! The faint pinks and oranges of this day's sunrise shouldn't worry sailors!

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Next up, we'll explore one of the largest floating markets in Thailand as a two-part series!

Previous post: Vacationing on the private island of Koh Thalu

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